Friday, April 8, 2016

E. L. Moore’s Spumoni Club Coach: Body and soul and cheese

There is no use pussyfooting in this matter. Do we or don’t we wish to wade into a passenger-car? We do? All right, let’s start. If we use home materials, the least we can do is to squander some time. If the result of our labors should not be satisfactory, we always have the trash can.
[Raymond Yates kicks readers in the metaphorical butt regarding passenger car construction on page 273 of his 1939 opus, Making & Operating Model Railroads]

The sides are 8 3/4' high by 20' long, and the ends are 8 3/4' high by 8' wide (presuming you're using 8' wide flooring).
At this point I thought it a good idea to make a drawing of a side and end to better understand the sizes of things. I laid out the drawing in 1/4" scale so I wouldn't have to fiddle with a tiny picture. The drawing's rough, but accurate - it's for working, not showing. You could do this on a computer, but I understand things better when I draw them with a pencil.

Since there are quite a few windows it would be wise to take the precaution of cementing a piece of thin stripwood above and below the window areas to prevent splitting while cutting out the openings (see Photograph A, inside of coach [this photo is missing]). At the same time another piece of stripwood should be cemented all around just 1' from the bottom edge for purpose of providing a ledge, simplifying matters when you come to assembling ends and sides around the floor.

I didn't do that prep work, but cut directly into the basswood without problem. Later, I did install an interior ledge so that the body fit properly on the the floor.
For the coach walls I used 1/16" basswood HO scale clapboard siding. An odd choice I realize, but I had a sheet - from the Mt. Albert Scale Lumber Co. - in my scrap box. The inscribed angling wasn't all that pronounced, so I decided to use what I had on hand inside of buying new material. E. L. Moore used 1/16" corrugated basswood sheet with the corrugations sanded down, so he too likely made do with what he had lying around. So, at least the 'made-do' ethos was preserved :-) Using the plan I drew the side in reverse on the sheet back.
The window openings are 2' x 3' except one which corresponds to the door and is 3' x 3' and the end windows are also 3' x 3'.

I used a brand-new #11 Xacto knife blade to cut out the openings, and used a new blade on each side. 
Then the side was cut free from the sheet. At this point the openings are still a bit rough and need to be cleaned up a little with sanding sticks and files. After all this work, and staring at that ribbed paneling for so long, I was reminded of my sandwich grill and had worked up an appetite :-) 
My favourite sandwich is a grilled cheese. Luckily, Debra had read my mind and had bought some aged cheddar, so we were ready to go.
Here's what you'll need ingredients-wise,
5 year old aged cheddar - Debra picked some organic stuff
Oatmeal bread
Honey mustard
6 slices of double-smoked bacon - if you're in Eastern Ontario, I recommend the stuff from Roadapple Ranch
Honey mustard
Olive oil
Once you've gathered that up, let's move on to assembly.
1. If you can convince your significant other to fry up the bacon while you prepare the sandwiches that would be most excellent, otherwise you need to get frying.

2. Brush olive oil on the outside surfaces of the bread. This is so the sandwich doesn't stick to the grill.

3. Shred enough cheese to make a significant pile as shown in the photo.

4. Spread the honey mustard on the bread's inside surface and then pile on the shredded cheese.

5. When the bacon is done, drain off the excess grease, cut into bite-size pieces and then stack equal amounts on both sandwiches. 
Once the grill is hot, stick the sandwiches in and grill until they're golden brown and the cheese is melty. The aged cheddar will look a bit curdled when done, but everything will taste just fine.
Get some plates; you're done! These sandwiches have intense flavour, so If you want something a little milder, as we did the next day, use a 50/50 mixture of a medium cheddar and mozzarella instead of the 5 year old aged stuff.
After sleeping off lunch for awhile, it was back to work. The coach wall openings were cleaned up with sanding sticks and files. The pieces were then painted with Tamiya acrylic XF-76, Gray Green (IJN).

Each opening is then fitted with an inner sash of 1/32" square stripwood cemented in so as to be flush with the inside surface. Then, after painting, a single strip of acetate will serve for the row of openings.
Instead of Mr. Moore's recommendation, I glued in some 1/32" balsa sheet to the inside of each wall. You can see that a ledge is provided for the wall to rest on the floor. These inner panels also act to form a recess for some clear strip to be used as window glazing.

The door isn't cut all the way through. The wood was shaved down to a smooth surface and a simulated door worked in with pencil and knife. It's the type of door which might have been salvaged from a bus, opening as it does, in the middle.

I did go ahead and cut the door all the way through. I'll make up a separate door and install it when I get around to adding the windows.
Six inch wide trim (1/32 x 1/16" for HO) sanded down to a more refined thinness, is added to the sides and ends as shown. One piece of 1/32 x 1/16" stripwood forms a window ledge all around.

For trim, I used Mt. Albert Scale Lumber Co.'s 2x4 scale lumber strips I had in my scrap box. Trim pieces were painted with Tamiya acrylic XF-4 Yellow Green prior to installation. I thought it would be tedious gluing all that trim into place, but it was a surprisingly pleasant activity. I think it was because the sides seemed to come to life as each piece was added. 
When assembled around the 8' x 19' floor, it should present a coach with a finished body size of 9' x 20'.

Yeap, it does! Once the trim was installed on the long sides, I glued the 4 walls onto the floor. I trimmed the end walls once everything was dry. For some reason I thought I wouldn't get the trim on the end walls to line up properly with the side wall trim if I trimmed the end walls prior to assembly. 
Well, it was a little awkward to apply trim strips to the ends after assembly, but it wasn't too hard and I got the alignment I was looking for. Digital photos are unforgiving, I see a few areas that need some touchup painting :-( Gotta go clean up the grill - until next time.
Probably there is a moral side to this car building. Many beginners are afraid to tackle the job of making a car of any kind, feeling that it is quite beyond their skill. This is a rather cowardly attitude. Perhaps our first work will not merit a blue ribbon, but what of it? As we move along, we shall gain in experience and, if we are made of the right stuff, we shall eventually reach a point of perfection that will permit us to fashion cars of all sorts with really delightful results. It costs little to nothing to try our hand at it. We don’t need to buy our scale trucks or couplers unless the body of the car merits such attention when it is finished.
[Raymond Yates revels the secret that all experienced model builders know: keep building, don’t give up on page 278 of Making & Operating Model Railroads]

Thursday, April 7, 2016

E. L. Moore: The almost household name in N-scale model railroading

Little did I realize when I posted that tongue-in-cheek cover I cooked up for a non-existent ‘70s paperback on N-scale model railroading by E. L. Moore that I wasn’t too far off. It turns out that in September ’68, Mr. David P. Morgan of Kalmbach Publishing wrote to E. L. Moore and asked if he’d consider writing an N scale primer for them. Mr. Moore declined and the rest is non-history. 

September 10, 1968

Mr. E. L. Moore
525 Oakland Ave., Apt. 3
Charlotte, North Carolina

We have a publishing proposal for you, Mr. Moore, and it is this: Are you in a position to author a beginner’s N scale model railroad book for Kalmbach of approximately the same size and format as the enclosed HO RAILROAD THAT GROWS and HO PRIMER, with delivery by May 31, 1969?

In our view, the expanding N scale market will inevitably introduce many newcomers to model railroading; and therefore it recommends itself to a soft-cover book exclusively devoted to the subject. Such a volume would not only introduce the novice to the pecularities [sic] of N scale itself but also the wider world of model railroading, per se -- just as the above-mentioned and enclosed HO books have done. Now, we cannot presently afford staff personnel for such an assignment. In our search for a free-lance author, your name was recommended by Andy Anderson, who purchased a considerable amount of copy from you during his MODEL TRAINS editorship days. Andy believes that your readable, step-by-step style would be what we need to communicate model railroading and N scale to the rank beginner -- not to mention your other qualifications in the field of photography and other illustrations.

If this is a project which would interest you, please write me at your earliest convenience. A self-addressed stamped envelop is enclosed.

Cordially,
signed David P. Morgan
Books Publisher

David P. Morgan/s1
enclosure.
[This book never existed, but I couldn't resist slapping a cover together!]

Sept 13, 1968

Mr. David P. Morgan,
Kalmbach Publishing Company,
1027 N. Seventh Street,
Milwaukee, Wisconsin.

Thanks for the opportunity to author a beginner’s N scale railroad book as outlined in your September 10th letter; but after looking over the HO Primer I don’t really feel that I qualify for the task. I have a woeful lack of electrical knowledge, and this as you know comprises a large share of any discussion on trains in general.

My forte is building models and scenery. Andy Anderson apparently forgets that he once asked me to do an article on elementary electricity for beginners, and I had to refuse him on the same grounds. Recently, I completed a small N scale railroad at Carsten’s suggestion and which will presently come out in RMC, but while the wiring on this was elementary, nothing complicated, and much the same as I had done on a previous HO pike, I still had to consult a primer on wiring to refresh what little knowledge I possessed.

Another thing: I like doing just what I feel like doing, and just when I feel like doing it. I abhor assignments, guidelines, schedules and deadlines. So I generally work as I damn well please and on what, within my limitations, I feel I can do well.

So thanks again for the offer, but I suggest you look for a better qualified author . . . and nowhere within the range of my acquaintances can I think of one I could recommend.

Cordially,
signed E L Moore

E. L. Moore
525 Oakland Ave., Apt 3
Charlotte, N. C.

The N scale railroad he’s referring to is his Enskale and Hoentee that appeared as a 3-part construction article in the October, November and December ’68 issues of Railroad Model Craftsman. It was a little, 30” x 30” layout that incorporated N, HOn2 1/2 and TT scales. Also, it was a beginner layout, but an unusual one that had E. L. Moore’s unique style all over it. It was not in the mold of the more generic material found in HO Primer or HO Railroad that Grows. The Enskale and Hoentee had a straightforward, uncomplicated trackplan, but for Mr. Moore, it was a little tricky to wire. So, building a model railroad that simulated typical railroad business, which is a common layout configuration, would be troublesome for him. The Enskale and Hoentee was for meant for simple, pleasant fun.

But, imagine if E. L. Moore had built on his Enskale and Hoentee experience and had been given free reign by either Kalmbach or Carstens to build a beginner’s N scale layout for book publication. Not something generic, but full of what made E. L. Moore, E. L. Moore. Consider this: Mr. Moore submitted the Enskale and Hoentee manuscript to RMC on 28 April 1968, and then on 23 May 1968, sent this follow-up to Hal Carstens (months before he was sent the offer by Kalmbach),

May 23, 1968

H. H. Carstens, Editor,
Railroad Model Craftsman,
Ramsey, N. J.

A little hind sight tells me I should have broadened the scope of that train article -- I should have challenged readers to build a size with a track plan that suited them, using the techniques and construction methods described.

You could even have Bill Schopp show a few track variations, in say 30” x 40” or maybe 36” x 48” but still retaining some of the scenic features of the pike I built. Holding rigidly to the 30” by 30” size will limit interest.

Enjoying loafing and reading.
signed E L Moore

E. L. Moore
525 Oakland Ave., Apt 3
Charlotte, N. C.

Denis Dunning tells me he saw you gadding about recently.

Possibly some incentive might be offered readers for most interesting N scale track plan (including scenery) within limit of, say 36” x 48”  . . . . . 

An E. L. Moore, Bill Schopp collaboration might have been interesting, and maybe even highly influential. We’ll never know. Mr. Schopp, aka The Layout Doctor, was a master of all things layout oriented, and even planted the seed of the idea with Mr. Moore for the rather off-the-wall projects that eventually became the Molasses Mine and A Garbage Train or...the Mudville Flats Extra, so they were simpatico on some level (more on this in a future post). 

It turned out that the Enskale and Hoentee was quite popular. In a letter E. L. Moore wrote to Hal Carstens on 28 October 1968, he mentions that it was a draw at the North Hills Hobby Shop in Raleigh, North Carolina,

Enskale thing makes a nice showing -- hobby dealer up Raleigh way (Jim Collier) has it on display as I probably told you before. Kinda cashing in on it ....

Later, in another letter to Hal Carstens dated 28 November 1968, Mr. Moore notes,

The little N-scale road is past history now, but I hope it did you some good and stirred a little interest up . . .  it was fun building it but allee samee I’m glad it was small and not a major project. On account of I like more leisure and less work ... 

So, maybe even with a collaborator, the definitive E. L. Moore spin on N-scale model railroading would not have come to pass - well, one that required a lot of work would not have come to pass :-) 

Tuesday, April 5, 2016

Mt. Lowe observatory gets wings

The next step was to add the left and right wings to the telescope room.
I started with the one on the right. To begin, I used the telescope room as an anchor from which to draw the wing's floor plan in N-scale using dimensions from the drawing. Once the floor plan was finished, I used its dimensions to draw the wing's walls onto a single strip for folding into the final shape.
After the wall strip was cut out, the wall corners were scored and folded into shape. In this picture you can see that I've also cut the floor from a piece of 1/16" balsa and used it for some test fitting before gluing everything together.
A balsa ledge was glued to the bottom perimeter to support the floor and thin paper tabs were glued to the inside of the wall strip to use as a glue strip for holding the wing to the telescope room. Those tabs were trimmed to size before attaching the wing to the room.
It's a little misshapen before the floor is squeezed into place. Keen-eyed viewers will notice that I've glued the wing onto the wrong sections of the telescope room :-( Once I clued in, I carefully sliced it off, cleaned the residue off the telescope room, and then glued it to the correct section. 
The wing shapes up nicely once the floor's in there. White glue holds everything together.
The other wing is assembled the same way. Once the wings were in place, all of the inside walls were panelled with 1/32" balsa. This helps to significantly stiffen the structure and will make for a nice interior since the roofs will be removable. Again, the eagle-eyed will notice that I've cut another door in the telescope room wall that leads into the left-wing - I had mis-located the original connecting door. The left-wing's internal partition is made from a piece of 1/16" balsa.
After the interior work was done, all the windows and doors were framed with strip basswood I had in my scrap box. I used the smallest and thinnest material I had on hand as I didn't want to buy anything, but you'll note that it's a little oversize for N-scale.

Sunday, April 3, 2016

When Canadian Pacific had wings

From 1942 to 1987, Canadian Pacific also ran an airline. I came across this snapshot in a box of my grandmother's photos of what I think is a DC-8 in an old Canadian Pacific paint scheme. I think this was taken at Toronto's Pearson airport in the days when it was still known as Malton Airport. The date this was shot is unknown, but it was likely sometime between 1961 when Canadian Pacific started to acquire DC-8s, and 1968 when they changed their name to CP Air and adopted the orange paint scheme.

Saturday, April 2, 2016

Kim & Jim


I was surprised that I didn't know about this 2014 video about Kim Adams and his work. I was glad to to have stumbled across it a little while ago. Turned out that bit of browsing also turned up this HO scale video wonder by Jimmy Cauty.