Showing posts with label Le Grand DEFI. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Le Grand DEFI. Show all posts

Thursday, September 5, 2024

RDC-X

I greet the new owner of RDC-X.

One of the commenters on the video for Le Grand DEFI noted words to the effect that it was good to see an RDC that wasn't being used for alien autopsies and such as he had seen on the X-Files. I didn't know any RDC had made a guest appearance on the X-Files so I used the commenter's hints and went to look for the episode.

An image from episode '731'. The RDC is a lab carrying a human-alien hybrid.

It turns out RDCs featured in a 2-part story in Season 3: episode 9, 'Nisel', and episode 10, '731'. According to the story there appears to be two RDCs in use. The one in 'Nisel' has the number 82594, and the one in '731' is numbered 82517. I suspect the tv show production crew used the same RDC for both, but switched car numbers as necessary?

An image from 'Nisel'. This one had a lab that seemed to be the site of an alien autopsy 

I don't know what RDC variant they used on the show other than it appears to be an all passenger one as there aren't any cargo doors on the car. I didn't have anything similar on hand to build my own version, but I did have this:

The Athern RDC-3 before conversion

It's the Athern unpowered RDC-3 brush painting victim. In the show the RDCs never appear as the self-propelled vehicles that they are; they're always seen being pulled around like any other freight or passenger car, which makes the unpowered Athern a good choice as the candidate model. I speculate the show's team picked an RDC because it's an odd looking car and seems a bit weird to most people, so turning it into an alien lab I guess wasn't much of a stretch - being self propelled was probably irrelevant. And there must have been an old, broken down one rusting away on a siding somewhere that would be cheap to convert. Well, at least make over its exterior. I assume the interior scenes were shot on a set.


I decided mine would merely reference styling cues of the X-Files "prototype" instead of being an exact replica since I didn't have an all passenger version on hand to bash and didn't want to buy one. The above picture of the conversion is fairly self-explanatory, but I'll note I used 0.040" thick styrene sheet for all the interior filler panels and 0.020" on the exterior ones. I also panelled over the unsightly notch in the body that secures the chassis - that's the panel beside my thumb in the above photo.


The prototype's ends appear to be in different styles. To make things easy I decided to fill in the side windows and leave the door's window a window. Once the body was painted I glued in a piece of clear plastic.


The only markings on the prototype appear to be large, black numbers on a white roof top panel. As I mentioned earlier, the numbers are different in each episode.


For those number panels I attached a small piece of 0.010" styrene to the roof. The numbers are rub-on, dry transfer items.

As for painting I sprayed the body with Krylon Fusion Metallic Silver and over coated with Testor's Dullcote after the silver had dried for a few days. The vents and grills were painted with thin applications of Tamiya Black Panel Liner. The chassis was brush painted with Revell Aqua Color Matt Black. 


I also installed a pair of Kadee couplers so RDC-X could be used with the rest of the fleet. Er, well, used with its cousin the Space Hopper.

The disturbance in the force caused by these two popped the roof off the lifeguard station!

The writers ended the 2-parter a little too E. L. Moore-like in my estimation. Similar to the way Moore concluded his Cannonball and Safety Powder Works, the RDC "blowed up real good" as they used to say on the Farm Film Report:


Rest assured this will not happen to RDC-X.

Well, who knows what my grey friend has in mind :-)

Thursday, August 29, 2024

MCM-7: A New Layout Genre?

Soon after taking pictures of the Le Grand DEFI dioramas on the family room coffee table I realized several of my layouts have been inadvertently sized to fit that piece of furniture. Maybe there's a new genre of layout in there somewhere?  

The 3 Le Grand DEFI dioramas

Ever since I stumbled across Bill Baron's mid-century modern coffee table layout proposal in the June 1966 issue of Model Railroader I've had thoughts of small, portable, and convivial family room layouts rattling around in my brain. I haven't explicitly set out to design one, but in a few cases it has worked out that way.

The Centennial Experimental Farm, aka the LOL III

The Micro-Layout category has an upper footprint limit of 3 to 4 square feet. My coffee table measures approximately 50" x 20", providing an area of a little under 7 sq. ft. for a layout. That's considerably bigger than the Micro-Layout maximum. 

Havelock Yard

Hence, maybe there's a new category in there for layouts that fit on a Mid-Century Modern coffee table of 7 sq. ft. or less: MCM-7 :-) And no overhanging, that's cheating :-)

Speaking of coffee, the family room is near the coffee machine and that's where I'm headed.

Wednesday, August 28, 2024

There's a prototype for everything: RDC Edition

Top: A real VIA Rail RDC; photo courtesy John | Bottom: My rendition in Proto 1000 form

You may recall I wasn't too happy about the decal striping I put on my RDC. A few days ago John sent me some photos he took of some real VIA Rail RDCs he recently saw at the Waterloo Central Railway. I had to laugh when I saw the upper blue stripe on some of those vehicles were worse than mine courtesy of Mother Nature! I'll just say mine has been parked outside a long time :-)

Monday, August 26, 2024

RDC crazy

Proto 1000 RDC-2 after alterations for the diorama

Even though I had an idea for a diorama, I didn't own an RDC, so the first thing I did was scour my usual internet model railway stores for one. I found one, and after a bit of a mix up with the seller, I was the proud owner of a like new Life-Like Proto 1000 RDC-2 in Baltimore and Ohio markings.

Life-Like Proto 1000 RDC-2 straight out of the box

I know that Rapido is today's leading manufacturer of RDC models, but for this project they cost much more than I wanted to spend, and I felt they were too beautiful for what I wanted to do.
 I knew I was going to cut open a baggage door so I could stage a canoe unloading scene, add some passengers, and apply some light weathering, but I sure didn't want to take a knife or brush to a Rapido item. Also, I didn't want the beautiful detail of the Rapido product to steal the show and become by default the diorama's focal point. The RDC was to be one element in a bigger picture.


Once the shell had been freed from the chassis it was relatively easy to pry off the baggage door and use some fine sand paper to get rid of the B&O markings.  I added a piece of black card inside the shell where the baggage door used to be to block the view of the motor. I also painted the inside walls in and around the baggage door opening black to kill stray reflections. Black Tamiya Panel Liner was used on the various exterior grills to give them a little depth.

Texas Plastic Nipper Massacre aftermath

I had some unpainted Model Power figures in my scrapbox and decided to use them as passengers - er, well, I used half of them as passengers. I took a few, painted their top halves black, cut them at the waist, and glued the torsos into the seats. Well, one figure, the one that's walking down the aisle, nearly survived the carnage and was cut off only at the knees before being glued down for eternity. This modelling technique is straight out of a horror movie, but it does produce some convincing window silhouettes :-)

Some passengers; some crinkly decals; some light weathering

I bought some VIA Rail decals for this thing. They turned out very difficult to apply as they were quite brittle and unwieldy. I won't name the manufacturer or discuss my technique as both are obscured in my memory by a blue haze of family unfriendly obscenities :-(


As I've noted many times before, the digital camera is a harsh mistress. The crinkly blue VIA stripe in the above photo is an irritant, but you know, when I look at the diorama, without the digital camera's unforgiving screen acting as an intermediary, it looks just fine in its setting. To me the defects seem to work to enhance the rough-and-ready wilderness look. Some sort of Schoppian thing maybe?

My $15CDN swap meet Athern RDC-3

Late in March, when I was a little more than halfway through this project, I stumbled across the above RDC-3 made by Athern at the annual model train swap meet here in Ottawa. It was one of these I had hoped to start the diorama project with, but I couldn't find a suitable one. I wanted to design the diorama around this version because it is unprototypically short for an RDC and would fit better on the base. I had calculated that an RDC of prototypical length would only be 2 or 3mm shorter than the base. So, it was a bit of a nail biter waiting for the one I ordered to show up so I could confirm it would fit. Luckily, it did. Also, the RDC-3 has its baggage door a little closer to the centre of the vehicle, so it would allow me to place the diorama's focal point closer to the middle. Well, when I stumbled across the Athern it was a bit too late to make adjustments to the diorama, let alone re-badge the CP marked RDC now that the Proto 1000 version was done.

Cornering performance on the Wayout Layout

The Athern was part of an estate sale, and its original owner had done an excellent job of re-motoring the model. It even has a nice custom flywheel in there for smooth stops and starts. All that for just $15CDN and it runs very well on the Wayout Layout to boot. Again, its short length is a great feature because it can take the sharp corners I designed on the Wayout for streetcar operations without any trouble. 

An unpowered Athern RDC-3 brush painting victim

Also at the swap meet I found an unpowered Athern RDC-3. Its windows were yellowed and had developed dimples, so I've discarded the window strips. Being a little ticked off with the decals I bought for the Proto 1000 model I decided to try my hand at brush painting some VIA Rail blue stripes on this one. I masked them off with Tamyia tape and went at it. Disaster. It turned out worse than the decal job. You can see the crummy results in the above photo. I'll eventually strip it down and spray paint it.


I was obsessed with RDCs, so when I stumbled across these two shells on eBay at about the same time I had bought the swap meet RDCs I immediately bought them too. Again, they are Athern RDC-3s. I thought I could use them to build a hotrod RDC! I've got some ideas, but I'll likely need a lot of coffee before they take shape :-)


That's a long story just to arrive at this scene: a fellow pulling a canoe from an RDC while a rail employee admires the view across the lake and a photographer takes some pictures of the action.

Well, once I'm done my coffee I'm off in my canoe to look for RDC barn finds for hot rodding :-)

Sunday, August 25, 2024

How I Built the Boathouse Depot

The boathouse depot that appears on my entry for LR Presse's Le Grand DÉFI is a completely fictional RDC stop on the route of Train 185. It was a lot of fun to design and build, and it didn't take long to go from rough sketches to finished model. 


I always start scratchbuilding projects with a drawing, well, almost always. In this case it was particularly important because space was tight, and I wanted to make the building as credible looking as I could. This meant I needed to work out a lot of details so that I felt confident with this project before construction started.

My drawings for these sorts of projects aren't beautiful things. Their purpose is to help me work out sizes and shapes. Given the unique space constraints with this project I didn't feel a drawing alone would be sufficient as a planning guide, so I also made a simple cardboard mockup. I rarely do this, but again, space was very tight.


The mockup was taped together from pieces cut from cheap Bristol Board and foam board. Beauty isn't important here, just the sizes and shapes of the components.


I made the drawing while the base was under construction so that I worked back and forth between the two in order to come up with dimensions that would fit. The mockup was built after the diorama base was finished so I had something to try the mockup on. You can see in the above photo the building and platform needs to be raised up some more so the platform is level with the bottom of the RDC's cargo door. 


As you can see in the above photo, a depth of 15cm isn't much to work with as the RDC is quite big (It turns out it's about 2mm shorter than the length of the diorama, so it just fits!). And yes, in the end there is about a 1' scale gap between the RDC and the platform. They don't touch as shown in the above photo.

The platform is 8' wide, which is rather narrow for such a thing, but pretty much as wide as I dared to make it on this diorama. I wanted space for the lakeshore up front to accommodate the kayaker and some at the back to separate the backdrop from the main action on the base. In reality the platform should probably be around 16' wide at minimum, and there should be some sort of ramps and stairs down to the shore. In my design the canoes and kayaks would have to be carefully lifted on and off the platform, all the while making sure no one fell off since there are no railings! Is this realistic? Well, I'm a geriatric with a bum shoulder and I can still lift my canoe up and over my head, so I'm going to declare the diorama's scenario plausible :-)


The back side is just a flat wall that looks as if I simply sliced the boathouse from a fully formed building. I couldn't have much three-dimensionality on this side because there needed to be room for the RDC to roll by. You can see on the mockup that I penciled in a window on the back wall. On the model I included two.


This end view gives an idea about how close the clearances are, but it's workable.


Once I had settled on the dimensions it was on to cutting out the walls. They're made from some of Evergreen's clapboard siding sheet styrene. The windows are Tichy Train Group items (the windows on the back wall are N-scale parts). The doors, whose openings are shown in the above photo, were all scratchbuilt from styrene odds-and-ends. 

As I noted previously the back wall was fitted with two window units to provide the boaters with a good view back into the bush, and of a parked RDC if need be. The side walls each have a floor-to-ceiling window at the front so one can look up-and-down the shoreline if the weather is too bad to go outside. 


The outside wall surfaces and window frames were painted with a loose mixture of Tamiya XF-7 Flat Red and Revel Aqua Color 36137 Reddish Brown, which is the same mix I used on the Insectary and its cousin. I wanted a freshly painted look so the building would make a strong contrast with respect to the greens in the landscape and background, so I didn't soften or weather it. I don't recall the green I used on the passage door, but let's call it a flavour of Moore Green :-)


The inside wall surfaces were panelled with 0.020" x 0.040" strip styrene to simulate wall studs and blocking. It isn't very prototypical; it's just enough to give a hint of wall detail if one glances inside. The walls were painted Tamiya XF-57 Buff with a dirty brush.


The boathouse's floor, deck, and loading platform are all one piece built up from pre-scored Evergreen sheet styrene for the deck and platform, and plain styrene sheet I scored myself for the boathouse floor.


The underside is panelled with some rudimentary joist work made from strip styrene. Again, it's just supposed to suggest joists to stray glances. Even so, it does considerably stiffen the structure.


The upper platform and deck surfaces were painted to match the building. Since these are horizontal surfaces I loosely brushed on some thin washes of greys, light browns, and beiges to represent sand and dirt. Not much, just a little. The boathouse floor was painted to match the interior walls, but several spills and deeper grimy stains were applied. 


The various wooden railings were made from styrene strip. All were built the same way: a railing plan was drawn on some paper, and pieces of strip styrene were laid on top and glued together. 


And there it is with all the railings installed. I should mention the staircases are items from my scrap box as is the yellow hand rail.

The other thing I should mention, since it's front-and-centre in the above photo, is the big opening between the railings opposite the loading door on the front wall. Why's it there you might ask? I had a plan that a pier might extend into the lake from this point for fishermen, divers, or sightseers, and might also provide a spot for large cruisers or pontoon boats to dock. Well, there was no room for even a hint of that extension on this diorama, and I don't foresee me placing this building on another layout that might accommodate one, so I just eventually strung a vestigial safety wire (which should be replaced with a properly hanging safety chain) across the opening and left it as an enigma. 


The boathouse structure was the easy part of this model: it's basically just a decorated box. The tricky part was the roof. I wanted to try my hand at making a hip roof as I thought it would make the building look more interesting, and its overhang would provide good shade over the boathouse's deck. I also wanted the roof to be removable so I could change scenes inside, and have a light in the attic that could be switched on-and-off. For the light I used a small, LED button light. All this added up to a trickier than usual project within a project.

In the above photo the roof's structure has been built up from 0.040" thick sheet styrene. The recess in the attic has been sized to accommodate the button LED. The button has some bulk, so the recess hides it from casual viewing.


In the above view you can get a better idea of the size of the recess. You can also see the channel that has been built up along the recess's perimeter. That's so the roof can sit snug on the top of the walls and won't slide off if bumped. It turns out I had to make the channel deeper with sidewalls about twice as tall compared to those in the photo in order to get a clean, seamless fit with the boathouse's walls. And it's a tight fit too. It takes a little wiggling to remove.


Speaking of fit, I kept checking it as I built up the structure. 


The rafters were panelled with 0.020" sheet styrene. That's a bit thin, but when I was calculating the sizes for this structure's components I didn't account for the thickness of the roof panels, so I went with some sheeting that was thin, but had a little structural stiffness. These panels may sag in the years ahead, but real roofs sag too for similar reasons.

Those lines on the roof side panels are guidelines for shingles.


The shingles are just strips cut from fine sandpaper to which I've attached some 3M Transfer Tape on the back. I didn't try and simulate individual shingles. I thought strips would be alright to give a suggestion of asphalt shingles.


To apply I just peeled the paper backing off the Transfer Tape and stuck down the shingle strip. When in place I trimmed the strip to conform to the roof's shape. 

Disclosure! After painting the shingles many of them started to curl and peel off. I then had to laboriously go and stick them back down with dabs of white glue. It seemed to take a long time and was quite frustrating to get a quasi-neat job, which still isn't quite right. In the future I'll go back to my usual practice of using a white glue like Weld Bond to stick these down. It makes shingling take longer, but at least I don't have to redo my work.


Some thin paper strips were used for metal flashing. The peak eventually had a piece of fine mesh inserted inside to let air in and keep birds out. However, I think the mesh isn't fine enough to keep out scale mosquitos :-)


Here's that LED button light. Its casing is actually black, but I painted it to match the interior. You can also see in this photo how much the wall channel has been extended compared to the original construction.


The LED throws off a pretty good light!


Here's the roof, more-or-less finished at this point. The mesh has been installed in the peak and painted to match the building.


A rare view of the back wall. Well, rare because once the building was installed on the diorama you have to peek carefully into the space between the building and the background to see it.


From this angle it really does look like the building has had its back end chopped off. The roof probably needs some guttering to channel rain water away from the deck. A detail for next time.


That brings us to the end of this little story. Well, it brings us to the end of what I have photos for. I haven't discussed a few things, like building the concrete piers the boathouse and platform sit on. They're just stacks of styrene blocks I cut from a styrene stick. Those stacks would probably get a foundation guy fired given how misaligned and rickety they appear, but I say they give the scene some character :-) Loading door construction I've discussed in other posts and don't want to repeat here. They're just built up from pieces of scrap styrene.

That's it for now. I'm off to look for my canoe :-)